2017年12月29日 星期五

Past, Present, and the Future vision of Sake ─ Observation from Isojiman Sake

This year is an amazing year about Isojiman Shuzo.
First of all, its latest flagship product, La Isojiman, released 1st edition with limited 400 bottles.





The Seimaibuai (rice polishing rate) achieved the historical highest, 19%, in Isojiman Shuzo history.
Despite the current highest Seimaibuai in the market is 1% by Tatenokawa Shuzo, Isojiman still had its own special skills than other sake breweires which make it unique.

The most famous one was their Junmai Daiginjo "Isojiman Nakadori 35" which was initially launched in 1998, and as cheer sake for G8 Presidents meeting in 2008.

They already keep working on four key points over twenty years.

A. Junmai Daiginjo
B. Grade AAA, Yamada Nishiki
C. Vintage
D. High Seimaibuai

Actually, to have high Seimaibuai which spend a lot of time in polishing rice, and lots of raw material.
All this progress already decides its high price due to materials and time.

However, the final product which customer cares more about is still sake itself.



It's honor and pleasure to join a twenty years vertical drinking party of "Isojiman Nakadori 35" in Japan this year. Ranges from 1st version, 1998, to latest version, 2017, where people can easily discover few difference between each other of years.

"Twenty years is just beginning." said people during the drinking party.
Generally speaking, with twenty years storage, sake usually taste with few or a little bit more old mushroom or decayed wood smell. If it gets much heavier, it tastes like over fermented rice wine.
However, there was not any kind of such smell and taste at all in old vintage "Isojiman Nakadori 35".


"I was absolutely surprised by this kind of sake! Eventhough, some good sake brewery which dig into vintage such
as Daishichi, Sudonhonke..., their old sake still have those kind of smell, but they are very well in mixing different fragrance and taste which make sake more sophiscated. However, this Isojiman Nakadori 35 vintage 20 years still taste pure and beautiful. What amazing!" said several senior drinkers during the party.

The younger years of "Isojiman Nakadori 35" still need much more time to decant. Maybe one to three days.


Therefore, we suddenly understand why Isojiman Shuzo release "La Isojiman" this year.
Isojiman Shuzo didn't do great effort marketing about "La Isojiman". They just release it, and if you are tracking them for several years, you will understand the meaning about this sake.
It performs the perspective about long time vintage comparing to red wine or whisky, which are talking about at least several ten years up! And this totally reverse the general sense about "You have to drink sake as soon as possible owing to its fresh".

Isojiman Shuzo still keep their step rhythm. They don't do much effort in marketing, but remain low profile with its sake as their best spokesperson. If you like their quality and taste, you will seek them automatically.
Quality is best.

In addition, they still keep direct store for local people. Everyday, many people still walk-in their store to buy sake lees for hotpot usage, and Junmaishu for after work drinking.

At present, Junmai Daiginjo "Isojiman Nakadori 35", maintain a role in high-end sake field, because of its pure, gentle, slim, elegant, and silky with complex taste, just like traditional Japanese geisha.

Breakthrough the limitation of sake vintage, "La Isojiman" is the pioneer and barrier at one particular phase.
Still, Japanese sake have infinite possibilities.




Note : Special thanks to store owner, Mr. Kinoshita-San, and my good friend, D.

2017年12月17日 星期日

神沢川酒造 正雪 純米吟醸 別撰 山影純悦



杜氏:山影純悅
出荷日2017/8
品飲日2017/12


楔子:
靜岡縣俗稱「吟釀王國」 
神沢川酒造創業於1912年,作為酒造的歷史不算長,但在日本已經有為數不少的支持人口

會注意到這個酒造,結緣於兩年前,其杜氏山影純悅,獲得黃綬褒章,也就是日本政府特別表揚在某個特定領域的職人所頒發的榮譽獎章,當年度曾出過一批雄町的純米大吟釀紀念酒,特別冠以杜氏之名

一直到兩年後的現今,山影杜氏業已85高齡,平成28酒造年度(2016/7~2017/6)已確定是其最後擔任杜氏的一年,後續接班的是其下歷任副杜氏 十年的崎村勉

縱觀其杜氏一生,同樣與農口尚彥杜氏出生於昭和7年,19歲進入酒造業內,29歲獲得南部杜氏的資格(為當時最年輕獲得杜氏的紀錄),之後杜氏生涯的最後34年,都在神沢川酒造,可謂貢獻了一生精華光陰於此,雖然獲獎的閱歷與其它甚為有名的杜氏相較下不算顯赫,卻也是有所佳績。更可敬的是其身處一線直至85歲,已足以令人欽佩!

品飲:
開栓,高接梨、蜜瓜、交雜著和三盆的香氣奔放直接,初入口可感受其冷冽的骨幹,隨後枝展開其變化,迅速、剛猛而直接,雖掛上日本酒度+3,但感受遠遠不止,辛口若干,足以搭配些口味稍重的料理如烤魚、雜炊之類,調性變化甚為細膩,隱藏在肌理之下的動作顯露山田錦的討喜

掛上的是ひやおろし,有些難以想像初榨的酒,其濃烈之程度
適飲溫域窄,約在雪冷至花冷之間,酒精感上升較強烈,個性十分鮮明的酒款,需要略為醒酒數小時藉以去掉酒體強烈的鮮明力道,儘管殘留的酒體仍屬強勁,但整體與酸度、香氣、濃郁的融合,卻是更為恰當,佐以一些辛味的重口味料理亦不見遜色
 
建議至少醒酒一天!
其圓融程度才較為妥當
 由此或許直接聯想到,山影杜氏也是性情中人吧!
 
心得:
除此紅標之外,尚有一綠標亦掛上杜氏之名,有緣者亦別錯過,
此外特別的是,在大吟釀或是純米大吟釀這級別,卻無掛上杜氏之名的作品,這倒與其他酒造的做法,有些相異,或許其孑然傲骨,如此可見一斑!?

再飲盡一杯,略表對山影純悅杜氏的敬意!也是一個時代的終結
幸會!感謝!以及再見

2017年12月12日 星期二

杉原酒造 射美 BLUE & RED




釀造元:杉原酒造
杜氏:杉原慶樹
出荷:2017/8
品飲:2017/11

楔子:
年產量在60石左右的酒造,號稱日本一小さな酒蔵。藏元兼杜氏的杉原慶樹先生,與當地的農家共同哉種揖斐の誉,以此酒米釀的酒,銘柄取為與「揖斐(いび)」唸法同音的「射美」。台灣除此BLUE & RED之外,尚有一支WHITE,大抵是其目標輸出海外的主力商品

在日本國內,射美的市價已經被炒作到四、五倍以上之譜,其程度可見一斑,以筆者經驗,通常實力不到的酒,一來是很難炒作上去,二來是儘管市價炒上去了,也會很快地掉下來,對日本酒來說,市場反應一樣是最現實

 品飲:
藍標,開栓以清雅的水梨香氣,混雜些許芭樂的味道為主,末段隱約仍有著巧克力苦味的香氣,入口甜潤,伴隨著不弱的酒體刺激,中和過於強烈的單一味覺,變化度不算高,卻很純粹地表達兩、三種味道的和鳴,末了的尾韻綿長,那苦澀極似持續地吃巧克力,會在喉頭間積累那苦中帶甘的回饋,很是特別

整體來說算是不錯的小品,而味道的表現過於單一,單飲如果喜歡的話倒是恰當;較建議搭點鹹甜的食物一起享用,應能有合適搭配
 
紅標整體在香氣與口感的表現上與藍標相去不大,唯其甜潤感要再來得重些,相較之下,單飲的話更易喝膩,較為推薦搭餐,在餐點的選擇上亦有些侷限,需選擇味道些許強烈點的諸如起司、腰果、蠶豆一類,較能相得益彰

後記:
以其在台灣的價位而言,確實算是很好性價比的作品,值得一試
 

磯自慢 中取り35 20年垂直




謹以此文紀錄,感謝惠賜我機會的好友D,以及店主木下さん

磯自慢中取り35初始年份於1998,逢今年剛好二十週年,有幸參加了二十年垂直的品飲會,會中好不熱鬧,同時見到三個酒造的社長,磯自慢酒造、醴泉的玉泉堂酒造、以及美丈夫的濱川商店

興喜是毋需多提, 更重要的是對磯自慢的熟成潛力又重新改觀
初年份的酒略帶些老酒感,但不重,無法想像是二十年的熟成酒,且不減其細膩脂粉的調性,多添了幾許蒼桑刻下的風華;然,要那也必得是先天良好,才有可能蘊釀如此風采!

1999~2003這個區間,絕對無疑是適飲期!
既保有新年份中取35的嬌嫩細緻,亦增添在口中流徜的複雜度,佇足更長的光陰,韻味無窮。小酌一口後,隨即融入那愉悅的時光,久久不能自己。一如經歷人生風霜的大家閨秀,更多幾分撫媚與傲骨自生,那只能由歲月刻畫而出

2004之後到最新年份的2017,若非垂直品飲,那中間細微的差異其實難以捉模,更甚者,在品飲的當下,更心喜的雀躍是否熟成更久,能夠達到老年份的境地?答案似乎肯定,卻無法說出個準

登高而望遠,經此一會,讓筆者對熟成酒有新的體悟,同時對磯自慢亦有新的認識!