特Ａ山田錦風土地塊研究品飲 ─ 龍力

年末，一場以山田錦風土地塊研究的品飲，挑龍力著實是個好標的，源自於其百分之百使用兵庫縣特Ａ地區的山田錦，同時在各個老字號的百貨公司尚有地塊分別的限定品，於是認真了一場關於特Ａ山田錦風土地塊差異的研究品飲。

總共八支酒款，但仍有許多地塊未包含，容後再表，簡單短評各支心得如下：

秋津，あらばしり，しずく生酒：口感豐富飽滿帶層次，猶如極具內涵與智慧，且經歷滄桑經驗的智者，略帶一線酒造的高階品，使用東条秋津釀製作品的影子，卻仍走出自我風格，龍力作品中，實屬秋津為筆者心頭最愛，然醒酒約莫需上一小時，香氣表現均衡而不強烈，雪冷時反而有些鎖住酒體表現，約在涼冷至花冷表現最佳。

上三草：為上三草地塊的特Ａ山田錦，市面上極少看到打著上三草地塊為賣點的山田錦，此作略具名門閨秀風範，香氣與口感表現雲淡優雅，變化纖細，與秋津呈現的口感截然不同，屬筆者次愛之酒款。

吉川米田：同屬龍力常規品項，三本柱之一的吉川米田，金字版的ＹＫ３５，調性奔放活潑，次於愛山而高於東条區塊的山田錦，無論在香氣或是口感的表現上皆平易近人而討喜，完全可以聯結到一般五千円級別的高階品項，其若使用吉川山田錦的口感調性。

吉川米田，ＹＫ４０─５０，高島屋限定：口感略具ＹＫ３５的雛型，若非與ＹＫ３５同場競飲，相信不會失色，香氣與口感仍具一定水準，唯在細膩度的處理上，明顯遜於ＹＫ３５的吉川米田。

奧吉川，君嶋屋限定：其米採用吉川町內的「奧谷」與「金會」兩個地塊混合，口感上具吉川米田較為奔放的特徵，但後韻的收尾切口較為俐落，整體調性介於上三草與吉川米田之間，屬於外放之餘，帶著纖柔特性的酒款，特色亦獨具一格。

天神地祇，高島屋限定：採用天神地區的特Ａ山田錦，另一款對照組此次並未收錄，一樣是天神地區的阪急百貨限定的大吟釀，香氣帶著山田錦典型的香蕉、水梨一系的果香味，口感略為奔放，而酒體中帶著較為強烈的澀調，適合較喜歡辛口些的飲者。

上松，高島屋限定：採用上松地區的特Ａ山田錦，口感上亦是苦澀味較為突出，在酒體平衡上大抵有維持住五千円這個價格帶的水平，但與常規三本柱比較之下，確有一段明顯差距。

荒走り，しずく生酒：香氣極為奔放，彷彿聲嘶力竭似地吶喊著，直接推測應是吉川地區的混米，口感剛中帶柔，酒體濃烈，然綿細尾韻與殘留口腔的刺激所帶來的反差，加分許多，平衡甚佳。此作先前亦試過一般的荒走り版，其中後段的苦澀調略為失衡，但在此一版上已無此問題，個人以為萬円以內的龍力酒款，此作絕對排在第一位。 

 仕込水：中硬水，飲入口中冷冽之餘，可感礦物質的衝擊，而水質體亦能連結到龍力較為剛烈的調性。

後記：
整體而言，龍力的酒仍是物有所值，地塊上的直接品飲亦可細部分出其中差異，以筆者感想而簡單分之：東条區的山田錦，似較具有複雜、層次；而吉川區的山田錦，口感與香氣的表現上較為直接而討喜。環肥燕瘦，事無絕對，端看個人喜好。
  
其餘尚未補足地區，如上中、長谷、毘沙門、酒仙之滴，亦是其它的特約店限定，要想一次品飲完，除了荷包與酒量外，收集亦需多費些心思。

而大部份的規格俱是ＹＫ３５，或許在某些如生酒、或是取酒方式上有些差異，但反應到地塊山田錦影響整體口感的差異上，仍是在大方向上已有分別，十分建議對於山田錦地塊有興趣的酒友，以龍力作為敲門磚；選擇單一酒造，亦能將酒造在釀造理念的差異，進而影響風味的因子上，減到最低。

秀鳳酒造場 純米大吟釀 愛山 山田穗２２

釀造元：秀鳳酒造場
杜氏：相田勝之
出荷日：２０１６／６
品飲日：２０１６／１１

楔子：
位於山形縣，藏王連峰山麓的秀鳳酒造場，創業於明治四年，１８９０年，年產量接近一千石，特色是使用許多的酒米來釀造酒，至少有十三種，包含山形縣產的酒造好適米：出羽燦々、出羽の里、つや姫、玉苗、亀の尾，以及其它的酒造好適米， 山田錦、雄町、美山錦、八反、恋おまち、山田穂、愛山，等等。

在１９９１年接任的武田莊一社長，廢除沿用舊有的杜氏制度，改任用了社員杜氏的相田，同時改為全年釀造的模式，並且幾乎以山形縣內的酵母來進行釀製。

心得：
愛山，開栓帶些橘子，西瓜，乳酸香氣與些許躍動的氛圍，初入口略帶甘味後旋即活潑躍動地在口腔內展開酸度與酒體刺激，末段後，由於前中段的甘口與酸度較強烈，而引起的苦味反差會較明顯，此為愛山的特色，此作亦有帶出這點，後韻飽滿，殘留些果香味於舌尖細細咀嚼，

整體來說，物有所值，很適合的愛山入門酒，單飲稍嫌五味變化轉折幅度大了些，而若不佐以至重口味如燒烤一類食物，皆能適當對應，算是合適的搭餐酒。

山田穗，以較清爽的香氣為主體，包含水梨、鳳梨、與些許的檸檬酸，入口偏甜潤，但不至膩口，酒體的刺激屬綿密而短暫的連續刺激，終至末段的澀調中等而綿延，餘韻不長而適中，整體而言在搭餐與單飲都是適當的小品，其山田穗留在舌尖上的澀味尾韻與龍力如出一轍，十足酒米特性。

後記：
 關注秀鳳一段時間了，整體而言，其在酒米調性的掌握能力與呈現上表現不錯，除卻了一些很常見的酒米，如果尚對一些少見的酒米，或是山形縣的酒造好適米有興趣的酒友，值得一試！也很適合當日常餐酒。

後續應當會繼續嘗試新的酒造了吧！

The Five Greatest Sake You Must Drink in Lifetime

Dears,
Since favorite taste and performance are different of everybody, there are also several other factors such as experience, age, drinking habits and so on..., which affect your sense.

However, based on personal perspective in past years in drinking sake until now, I would like to suggest following Five Greatest Sake which you must drink in lifetime.

 

The summary of those five greatest sake are as below, and detail reasons will be given later.

1. Daishichi, Myouka Rangyoku Grand Cuvée

2. Isojiman, Junmai Daiginjo Nakadori 35, and Adagio

3. Juyondai, Ryusen and Ryugetsu

4. Kakunkou, Kakunkou Vintage

5. Tatsuriki, Akitsu Arabashiri Namazake

     Kokuryu, Nizaemon and Ishitaya

     Noguchi, Taiyo

1. Daishichi Myouka Rangyoku Grand Cuvée

Brewery : Daishichi Sake Brewery

Prefecture : Fukushima, Japan

Special : Cheers sake in group of eight in 2008 for the first ladies at Hokkaido

Daishichi is the first and the only one sake brewery to phase in concept like master blended Whisky. The Myouka Rangyoku Grand Cuvée is the blended sake over twenty years of plural Myouka Rangyoku which is supreme grade Junmai Daiginjo of the brewery. In addition, vintage are also important part of this greatest sake since the vintage can polish the sharpness, balance the overall taste, and enhance Umami.

The generation of Myouka Rangyoku Grand Cuvée are going to fourth since the first version was released in 2007 and chosen for cheers of group of eight meeting at Hokkaido in 2008.

The total quantities of each generation are 732, 1011, 13xx, and 1701 with divided into three years for release.

However, it is hard to handle the sake. The most difficult part is decant. The aroma and taste has limited golden interaction within two to three hours if you decant well. On the other hand, it will only be a good sake instead of reaching greatest if decant failure.

Through personal drinking experience more than ten bottles of Myouka Rangyoku Grand Cuvée, there are only twice in excellent condition which aroma, taste, and body balance are under awesome interaction.

The fragrance performances extremely complicated with plants such as lily, grass, mushroom and minerals on the very top parts, followed by fruity aroma like apple, banana, pears, yogurt, and lactic acid in middle level. The very bottom one comes with rice incense, a little bit attractive alcohol and rice koji smell due to vintage.

 

Taste and flavors are sophisticated as well.

Body is strong, vitality, and balance between sweetness, bitterness, sour, dry and astringency.

Served well through cold to room temperature (5 - 25 degree Celsius)

Impeccable food pairing both with Western and Asian food from appetizer to main course excluding dessert owing to its kimoto.

In order to completely demonstrate its fragrance, Riedel Burgundy Grand Cru glass is good selection.

I would like to put it in 1st position in must drink sake in lifetime.

2. Isojiman Nakadori 35 and Adagio

Brewery : Isojiman Brewery

Prefecture : Shizuoka, Japan

Special : Cheers Sake in group of eight in 2008 at Hokkaido

Breweries in Shizuoka produce several good sake historically, and Isojiman is one of the best of them.

The Junmai Daiginjo Nakadori 35 is the topest one sake from the brewery, released first version in 1996, limited around a thousand 720ml bottles and released in December only each year. Adagio is a three years vintage version of the Nakadori 35, and quantities are more rare.

According to sake pressing method, which can be divided into three parts as following :

1. Arabashiri which is the initial liquid naturally flow of the sake contains the most attractive fragrance and rounded taste.

2. Nakadori and Nakagumi which means the middle part of the sake during pressing have the most clear and pure liquor without miscellaneous taste.

3. Seme is the last part of the sake during pressing, and all the strong flavor are concentrated in this final portion; however, the aroma will be less.

Fragrance and flavor of Isojiman Nakadori 35 are the easiest sake close to sake lover. 

Without decant, self-vintage, and any confuse, drinker can easily enjoy the Isojiman Nakadori 35 anytime, since it's already well brewed to your table. In addition, Isojiman brewery also recommends best decant method for their consumer. You just open the bottle cap, lock it back, put into refrigerator, waiting ninety minutes, and you are done! Actually, eventhough without this procedure, the Nakadori 35 are still full of charming originally.

Aroma are full of southeast Asia tropical fruit attractive smell, in addition to classical banana, apple, pears due to Shuzo kotekimai, Yamada Nishiki, more complex fruity fragrance including lemon,

peach, grape, and guava. A little bit sweetness like Wasanbon-Sugar teases your senses and distributes fascination which create a powerful imagination before drinking.

As your desire, flavor and taste undoubtedly reach balance between essential factors of Japanese Sake, including sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and full body. The tail is memorable which smoothly touch the tongue and leave little bit stimulation without strong savor. 

3. Juyondai Ryusen, Ryugetsu

Brewery : Takagi Shuzo

Prefecture : Yamagata, Japan

Special : Leading the trend of master brewer, Toji, and brewery owner as the same person

Juyondai is the most famous sake brewery in recent twenty years, since the fifteenth generation brewery owner, Mr. Takagi Ken Osamu, took the responsibility as master brewer, Toji, in 1994. 

After that, Juyondai raised as comet, and lighting as Sun until now in global market. Their sake have very stable quality from entry level to premium ones. Ryusen is one of the most expensive sake in the market though its origin price is still fair which already ten to fifteen times higher as market price.

Excluding the price issue, the quality and taste of Ryusen and the second premium sake, Ryugetsu, are excellent enough to be put into the sake you must drink in lifetime. Not only because of its famous, but the start of a new generation of sake.

4. Kakunkou Vintage

Brewery : Sudo Honke

Prefecture : Ibaraki, Japan

Special : The oldest existing sake brewery in Japan with over 800 years history

Current owner is the 55th generation of the family and inherited the name, Sudo Gen Uemon.

Sudo Honke is the one of most earlier pioneer reaching global sake market in Japan. Their top grade sake, Kakunkou, are brewed as namazake which means without filtering and pasteurizing and keeps the most origin type of sake. Besides, their shipment to global market requires low temperature to maintain quality. 

 

Regular Kakunkou are released at least twice each year in March and November. Furthermore, Kakunkou vintage don't have regular released date and years. In the past there have been two to fifteen years vintage, and quantities were extremely limited in several tens bottles only. In addition, the most expensive sake ever shown in the Japan Rakuten online shop which is a million Japanese Yen of 1994 Kakunkou vintage.

All the Kakunkou are in namazake status and vintage by Sudo Honke itself to keep great quality.

On the other hand, they had co-operated with Riedel, a famous wine glass company, to demonstrate pairing between Kakunkou and Riedel Burgundy Grand Cru special edition as a historical brewery.

 

The Kakunkou vintage translate strong aroma as in regular ones into elegant fragrance which includes several light taste fruit such as apple, guava, grape, pear, and little bit lily smell. Taste smoothly flow on the tongue with rice and yogurt acidity. Cereals smell dance with bitter and rice koji, and finalized a little bit astringency which merges those refined flavor. Tails are memorable as well with rice and fruity body.

5. Tatsuriki Akitsu Arabashiri Namazake

    Kokuryu Nizaemon, Ishitaya

    Noguchi Taiyō

 

At fifth position, it's dilemma to determine which sake is more outstanding. Since there are several names come up, and compare them to former four great ones, excluding to the remaining three which have vintage potential based on their current conditions and outlook in the future.

Tatsuriki Akitsu Arabashiri Namazake is Junmai Daiginjo and brewed by Honda Shoten in Himeji, Hyogo prefecture, Japan. The special points of Honda Shoten all utilizes super premium Yamada Nishiki as rice materials since they are local close to farmers.

Akitsu is the top grade of Honda Shoten regular items, and its Arabashiri namazake version is limited in specific stores within limited time as well.

 

The origin sake body of Honda shoten is stronger above average; however, with shizuku (naturally drip collection of sake) method, and not specified years vintage which adorns its taste into balance within hardness and softness.

Kokuryu is famous owing to the dedication to Japanese Imperial family, and the favorite sake of the Imperial prince. Nizaemon and Ishitaya are the two parallel top sake of Kokuryu Shuzo which comes from their founder's name, Ishitaya Nizaemon. 

With shizuku and vintage body, the taste is really another aspect relative elegant of sake. Since it is released once per year in each December, Japanese treats it as precious gift for celebrating new year, and drives up its market price as two to three times to origin.

 

                                              

 

Mr. Noguchi Naohiko has a very respect and widely spread title, the god of Yamahai.

Yamahai and Kimoto are traditional sake yeast method, and the characteristic demonstrate unique acidity, strong body, and long tail sake.

Retired in 2015/3, over sixty five years in sake brew, Noguchi shuzo was the last brewery which he worked for the last year. The top three items are Taiyo (Sun), Getsu (Moon), and Hoshi (Star) which can be remembered as one of his peak work.

With Arabashiri namazake genshu type of Taiyo, its fragrance and taste just like running marathon which has long energy and potential for decant. The drinker can enjoy several stage transformation about body, fragrance, flavor, and tails through temperature and time-variant. 

Actually, I would like to raise Noguchi Taiyo position up, if it becomes yearly regular items. Unfortunately, there was only the sake manufactured and shipped before 2014/12 which were fully handled by Noguchi Toji himself before his retirement, and of course, is only suggested to acquire those ones. After that date, the sake were handled by other people who don't have as much skillful and concept like him.

 

To conclude above great sake ever, there are at least several concepts raised as below.

1. Junmai Daiginjo

2. Shizuku genshu

3. Vintage

Although 90% of sake are really recommended to drink due to fresh, the great sake combine time factor into its ingredient which make them unique and special ever.